Please write a paragraph with your observations and post it here. Submit photos that illustrate your points along with your observations
Alexis Mabille
I was not at all impressed with the Alexis Mabille show. I like the concept of the white and colored version, but the execution left me with my forehead furrowed. I thought the white versions were exclusively better than the color copies with the exception of this black dress.
Even the craftsmanship disappointed me. I mean this crotch is a wreck and the side seems are puckering like crazy (notice, no detail photos available, go figure). 
Also it didn't even seem special or remotely innovative. When I see haute couture I want to be dazzled. We've seen long sheer over short opaque, we've seen loose unflattering asymmetry. And we've seen it done better.Armani Privé
To the complete extreme I absolutely adored Armani's collection. It was completely innovative, not just for fashion but for Giorgio himself. And not just style, but actual fabric engineering. I mean when I opened the collection I totally forgot who the designer was because it looks so modern. He's sure come a long way from American Gigolo! It's exciting to see something that looks futuristic but also wearable. Often the use of futurism in haute couture is a fantasy but difficult to imagine actually wearing the garments. I was happy to see the garments in motion because the fabric moves and the light does awesome crazy tings in reflecting off the fabrics. I appreciate the range here. He shows us separates in the same fabric, separates in the same color but different textures, dresses in various lengths, pants jackets tops, but it all feels completely cohesive. The collection is not without influence, the 50's born pencil skirt is a star of the show and the hats have a pit of a military flavor, sailor cap meets combat helmet.
Though clearly Tim Blanks wasn't feeling it, I like the dimpled texture and pattern of this 
on the body of the dress but the bottom does start looking a bit like Pee-Wee's foil ball at the Playhouse. Paul Poiret would be so proud of this tunic and hobble-esque look here 
that is flattering and interesting with such a strong historical reference yet a refreshing new take. And then this patchwork that helps tie all the other solid looks together. 
It's nice to see a bold print. I would have rather seen tops made out of this than the bedazzled breasts. 
They are too reminiscent of Britney's Toxic video for my taste. And I also did not like this look with the tourniquet/sling sleeve/collar, 
she looks like she just got patched up in the HC-ER.Bouchra Jarrar
I did not love or hate the couture collection by Bouchra Jarrar. The asymmetry was interesting and I do think she finds harmony and balance, but it was a bit lackluster for me. I wouldn't buy any of the pieces, though i do think fur and leather are basically gross and wrong, but they just don't look comfortable. My favorite piece was the long jacket in the first look
and my least favorites were these two. 
I'm really not sure what is going on here, or why...? I mean in the silver one it looks like she forgot to take off her nighty before she put on her dress, or that maybe she has he baby strapped on to her back over the evening gown. And the black, well, I have two words, BAD PROM.Chanel
I love Love LOVE the spring 11 RTW by Chanel so I was excited to see what Karl came up with for couture and frankly I thought the show was a bit of a yawn. I have to admit that I really enjoyed the review though! I'm sure to see the garments in person would have considerably stronger impact. I felt like the client age was strangely inconsistent, one model was made to look 12,
while this next one looks so mumsy, 
or like a 12 year old dressed in her mother's suit. The fit is awkward. I lot of the models looked like they were swimming in their clothes. They say dewy web, I say bubble wrap. 
And the straight across then rounded shoulders made all of them look really tense. I mean, I love old Karl, he's adorable and awesome, and there are definitely some pretty details and sweet ideas. But I don't think that detail translates to photos of runway on the computer. As a whole, I'm just not thrilled. Coco Chanel busted through a world of fashion that had no clothes remotely like what she was making. She brought comfort to women in fabrics that move and feel good, but most of these woman look totally uncomfortable. And beaded clothing chafes, and ten million beads is a whole lot of chafing. I did like the sequin leggings in theory, though, no amount of craftsmanship would keep the sequins on most women's thighs as we walk, but the button bottom leggings are fantastic.Christian Dior
Does John Galliano live in the southern hemisphere? Because his fall collection for Dior looked like spring and the spring collection looks like fall. I absolutely agree with Natalia in that his proportion is stellar.
He's such a fun designer. This is what I want out of a couture show, over the top, drama, romance, decadence. I'm glad to see the New Look hanging in there. 
Full skirts are not so in at the moment. But he does it with such drama and sex appeal that it's totally covetable! My favorite look is this 
I love the shimmery dotted swiss pencil and would wear it in a heartbeat. I can't imagine wearing a top with that kind of volume but Galliano makes me want to, and that, folks, is what truly innovative fashion is all about! I also like that in this collection from one to the next all the looks are totally unique from each other in color texture, volume, proportion, materials, silhouettes, but there's a certain flavor to it that makes it all work together. It's like say, (Americanized) Indian food, each dish is different but there's a certain flavor (garam masala) that makes it all work together. And the styling is smokin' hot!Ellie Saab
I really hate textures and his choice of reds. Spring is only a fraction of a hair less trashy than fall. He needs to look at Givenchy. The bride looks very German Expressionistic to me, Corpse Bride.
This dress here
is what I do not want my line to look like. Aesthetically, it's cute, but this is appropriate for a 16 year old. Or maybe the boudoir...Having a cast of characters I'm gonna say is generally a bad thing in a collection.
Jessica Rabbit Juno Holly Golightly
I like this one best.
Givenchy
I like this show more relative to the fall show. I think I may have enjoyed this less without having seen the previous one before hand. Aesthetically I'm not that into it, but I appreciate the intricacy, the qualities of the collection, consistency, variation could be pushed I think. The texture/pattern/image/detailing
remind me of this art piece in the New Mexico museum of Natural History and Science in Albuquerque. I went there a bunch as a kid. This picture is really yellow, it's more white in real life. I scoured the internet and this was the best pic series I could find. Overall on this collection I'd say, "Well, I wouldn't have thought of it..."John Paul Gaultier
To be honest, I liked it better as thumbnails. Once I got in on the details the textures and relationships weren't stopping my heart.
This is utter crazy town
since who wants bigger hips, but somehow it almost works. (I don't like the bottom of the jacket, sheer ruffle is just really out for me.) I like the all black suit with red shoe.
I like the sporty coat and true waste, but I don't like slash pockets and I really hate that neck ruffle!A lesson for the young ladies, this one everyone is flipping out over is smokin hot!
suggestive, powerful, creative, and then this is just trashy looking,
it's perfect for Mistress Matisse or Elvira but it gives away too much, crosses the line of sexy into sexual. I think clothes should tease, leave the viewer wanting more.This is sexy
is this the one Tim Blanks called straitjacket-y? It's my favorite of the show.This looks like it has plastic Hawaiian leis sewn all over it.
And I hope this is intentionally so Cruella De Vil.
This is hands down my least favorite,
it's a Scarlet O'Hara piñata. This is TOTALLY the antithesis of what i want in my collection. I can hear Tim Gunn's voice, "Don't forget to edit!" Horrible from head to fringe! i liked the overall flavor of the show. Punk is huge here in RVA. I like the grit, but I prefer a little more finish.Valentino
This show is what I expect from the house of Valentino, elegant, classy, pretty.
The gowns are youthful but not junior. I have to admit none of the looks took my breathe away. I liked the overall palette but the red (especially the opaque) 
is too stark against the muted pastel colors of the rest of the collection. The two green looks are a bit separate as well, maybe a little more cool would have helped the continuity. I think the order could have been improved, if the prints 
came between the solid reds, and the green looks 
it might tie the whole collection together more. Still, the reds would stand out, and I don't think 2 looks in the middle of the show should stand out on color alone. I love the swirling collars. 
I appriciate the Victorian influence 
and I hated the Elizabethan neck ruffs. 
I noticed an overarching theme of this season's couture was "flesh".
Whether it be pinks so muted and browns so pale they blend in with the skin,
Chanel Dior
Valentino Elie Saab
Or so sheer the skin shows through,
Chanel Valentino
JPG Givency
Alexis Mabel
or somebody else's skin,
Bouchra Jarrar JPG Valentino
Or so dang tight and slick it looks like a second skin.
Armani Priva
Though the collections vary strongly from one to the next, all of the collections have at least one tie to the idea of skin.
Whether it be pinks so muted and browns so pale they blend in with the skin,
Chanel Dior
Valentino Elie Saab
Or so sheer the skin shows through,
Chanel Valentino
JPG Givency
Alexis Mabel
or somebody else's skin,
Bouchra Jarrar JPG Valentino
Or so dang tight and slick it looks like a second skin.
Armani Priva
Though the collections vary strongly from one to the next, all of the collections have at least one tie to the idea of skin.
Ali's reply:
I agree with you about Bouchra Jarrar - it was sort of hit and miss collection with nothing really great to write home about.
Though in case of Armani, I do feel that it is was yet again a disappointing collection and a clear sign that he really needs to call it a day. After seeing amazing work from him over the decades it is sad to seem him do this stuff.
Though in case of Armani, I do feel that it is was yet again a disappointing collection and a clear sign that he really needs to call it a day. After seeing amazing work from him over the decades it is sad to seem him do this stuff.
I think they are a few years late with the Elizabethan ruffles anyway...nicely written - good job.
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