crits by Jamie, Christian, and Sabrina
1. Is the collection well-developed and balanced in terms of fabric, color, silhouette, proportion, and design details?
For an intended Betsey Johnson collection, I would say everything is well balanced. Betsey has a tendency to stick to making dresses, and Emily really stuck close to the mark on this one but threw her own spin on things by bringing in some pant/top combos. All fabric and color choices were spot on for B. Johnson. I feel that the silhouettes are not quite what I expect from a Betsey collection, but all of the fabric choices and detailing (such as the rhinestones and large face graphics) bring in some Johnson style.
The collection is well developed in terms of fabric and color choices. The bright, bold colors play off of each other really well in each of the looks. Great use of design details. I like how the mustache was incorporated into the garments as well. Look number 1 might be my favorite. It has the potential to turn tacky but it was executed to fit the theme perfectly.
I know it’s a spring collection, but I would have liked to see another long piece like the dress in #9. I like the ruffled hemline and feel that it could have been used further in some other looks. I like the attention to detail in these garments. It is clear to see that the designs were well thought out. I would like to see more color though, like the pink striped dress.
2. Have the silhouette, proportions, and all design details been fully explored, and has the designer arrived at the best ultimate uses for these elements in the collection?The more and more I look at each piece in the collection, the more I feel this is a very well developed Betsey style collection. The details, such as the swimmers, rhinestones and the handle bar mustache belt buckles, etc really tie it all together, and are used in ways that make sense (for B. Johnson). I think the designer really looked at all of the options and found what worked best for her perspective.
The collection provides a wide range of very unique details and the color story keeps everything cohesive. I feel like each design detail (i.e. mustache, face, etc.) is implemented in such a way that they could individually be explored in a collection on their own.
All design elements have been fully explored. There is great attention to detail. As mentioned previously, another fuller silhouette added to the collection would have added more variation to the collection. I do like the change of the Betsey logo on the cover page. It goes well with the inspiration of the collection.
3. Is the presentation created in the most professional manner possible?While her Intro Board, Moodboard and Illustration boards appear professional enough, the presentation of the Fabrics and Color board needs work. The swatches for the fabric really need to be bigger, usually they are done at 4" square for a professional portfolio. Also, when cutting knit fabric (as this appears to be mostly knits here) try making a square in masking tape on the back and then cutting just the outer edges of the masking tape. This will give your knit structure to lay flat as well as allow you to get a clean cut edge.
The presentation is very professional. I'd be interested in seeing what images you would choose to incorporate into the background of the renderings (if you had decided to go that path).
The placement of images, sketches, and flats are laid out professionally and consistently with the exception of fabric swatches. They are cut and placed crooked. The color chips are also cut inconsistently in size and shape.
4. Do all boards appear clean, neat, and legible?Yes, all board are neat, clean and legible.
Yes - very clean, neat and legible
The boards are clean and legible, but the image on the cover page looks crooked. I’m not sure if it is the angle to which it was photographed or if it was cut this way. I love the images on the mood board, however it is a little cluttered. There are so many great elements on this board, but it is a lot to look at and a little white space here and there to separate a few pieces would make some of the stronger elements stand out and create a more balanced mood board.
5. Is the style and rendering of the fashion figures appropriate and beautifully executed?Yes, Emily really went an extra step and made each figure really embody he spirit of her designs, with the girls sporting mustaches and such. I really enjoy Emily's drawing style, and she has rendered the clothes beautifully.
The rendering of the fashion figures is true to your artistic style. Due to the flat nature in which you render your fashion figures, some of the arms appear to be really short (esp. look 2) as the perspective aspect and movement of the arms isn't getting portrayed.
Yes, again I love the attention to detail shown in the garments on the fashion figures. The style and detail captured my attention. The rendering could have shown more contrast with some shadowing, as they appear a little flat.
6. Are the flats accurate in their proportions and details? Do they look good in the layout and presentation?While the line quality could be smoother and each could be more symmetrical, I feel that they are plenty accurate enough for beginner flats. They also appear to embody the proportion and detail of each of her garments as well. Try getting the tiny french curve tools and a 6" c-thru rule, these are god sends when trying to do symmetrical hand drawn flats.
Yes, the flats are accurate in their proportions and details. They compliment the presentation.
The proportions are a little off, for example, the hat on the red dress in #2 is longer on the flat than on the figure. The hemline on dress #9 looks fuller on the figure than on the flat. Also, how is the wearer getting into this dress? I don’t see a seam in back for a zipper. It looks sleeveless, but it is not resting on the shoulders.
7. Do all supporting boards -- mood board, muse board, detail board, color and fabric boards -- look professional and deliver the necessary information in a beautiful and informative way?As I said earlier, the fabric/colors need some work, but other than that, yes they appear nice enough and deliver all the necessary info. Because you are using very plain paper for the background, you may want to play with a grounding element for your illustrations, such as board lines or creating a shadow around the feet. As they are now, they appear to just be floating strangely on the paper.
The cover board creates a great first impression of the project. Your personalization of the Betsey logo really adds to the mood of the project. The moldboard is very busy but I think it fits the ambiance of your chosen company. The board that contains your fabric and color swatches is a bit confusing because the colors are not aligned in the same order.
Overall, I think the presentation is good. It shows an interesting collection, capturing my interest, hoping to see it on the runway.
8. Does the designer possess an understanding of high taste level and an awareness of the modern direction of the fashion industry?Yes, I believe Emily has a very high taste level, and see a very modern twist in her designs here.
Great job on your final project. I enjoyed seeing your work all semester and appreciate the feedback on my fashion figures.
Yes, this collection is modern and very Betsey Johnson. My favorite piece is the dress with the face.
my comments in response:
Jamie
Great advice on the jersey knit! I don't know why that never occurred to me. It would probably work for cutting pieces for construction too right?
I'm totally into learning industry standards, thought I will probably never draw a professional-style croquis again, it's fascinating. I remember from fashion illustration that they would say to put a shadow below, but i could never quite figure out where the shadow needed to be in order to not look like IT was floating in space. I'm going watch some runway with solely that in mind! Thanks for the reminder!
I've never been able to draw or cut a straight line to save my life (I've got the scars to prove it), luckily I don't have much need for them in abstract painting. ;)
I really appreciate your feedback!! I had a lot of fun with this class. It felt like playing make believe only with other people who are in that world, very interesting experience, like no other I've had! It's been awesome to be in class with professionals as a large percentage of the folks in my program are hacks at best.... it used to be amusing now it's just boring. But I am basically done with classes, I have professional practices and a 1-on1 DS and I'm DONE BABY!
Christian
I can definitely see that about the arms, I know how to render dimension, but for me the thing i need to work on the most is line. I really love prismacolor and the juicy not exactly flatness of them, so I've been getting into them a lot. I have rendered humans and clothes a lot more finely in the past but it's just not what I'm working on right now. And since I'm an abstract painting and drawing major I've been trying to have fun with this class, do the assignments, but also stay on track with my own person and artistic goals. However, i do think now that they are dry, another layer on the shadow sides of just the skin would be a great addition, thanks!
As far as the color swatches go, I had them in the same order and it just looked annoying. I'm a color girl above all else, and my eye and brain demand asymmetry balance and surprise, so I went with that layout instead. If I ever did this again I would shoot each swatch individually and then digitally lay them out because my digi-cam cannot figure out how to read all those colors and textures at the same time.
Sabrina
I had some more full skirts in my 26 looks but when I whittled it down to this no others made the cut, plus, full is not really in right now (especially in my book) and it's a little too cliche Betsey. MORE COLOR? It almost runs the full spectrum. I have never had anyone tell me I need more color, that's just funny to me.
Personally I think more variation would have taken away from the cohesiveness of the collection, none of my dresses have the same silhouette plus a jacket and 2 pairs of pants. I mean, i guess i just don't see how i could have fit more into 10 looks and kept it harmonious.
The image on the cover page is not crooked, that's exactly what I meant it to look like, a little rough, just like Bestey. in fact, my crit from Ali on that cover page was "perfect".
The face dress I imagined having a hidden side zipper so that's why I didn't draw it. I envisioned this dress with straps inside that are holding the dress on and some sort of boning inside the "hair" that holds it up, a little gaga and impossible to explain with a 2 sided flat... good eye on noticing that though!!
As far as seeing it on the runway, I'd be happy to sell it but I'm sure not going to be pursuing it. I girl who works in the bar i draw at a lot said she wanted several of the outfits, so maybe i can get her to make a few of them for me in trade for whatever designs she wants for herself!! We shall see!
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions!!!
Great advice on the jersey knit! I don't know why that never occurred to me. It would probably work for cutting pieces for construction too right?
I'm totally into learning industry standards, thought I will probably never draw a professional-style croquis again, it's fascinating. I remember from fashion illustration that they would say to put a shadow below, but i could never quite figure out where the shadow needed to be in order to not look like IT was floating in space. I'm going watch some runway with solely that in mind! Thanks for the reminder!
I've never been able to draw or cut a straight line to save my life (I've got the scars to prove it), luckily I don't have much need for them in abstract painting. ;)
I really appreciate your feedback!! I had a lot of fun with this class. It felt like playing make believe only with other people who are in that world, very interesting experience, like no other I've had! It's been awesome to be in class with professionals as a large percentage of the folks in my program are hacks at best.... it used to be amusing now it's just boring. But I am basically done with classes, I have professional practices and a 1-on1 DS and I'm DONE BABY!
Christian
I can definitely see that about the arms, I know how to render dimension, but for me the thing i need to work on the most is line. I really love prismacolor and the juicy not exactly flatness of them, so I've been getting into them a lot. I have rendered humans and clothes a lot more finely in the past but it's just not what I'm working on right now. And since I'm an abstract painting and drawing major I've been trying to have fun with this class, do the assignments, but also stay on track with my own person and artistic goals. However, i do think now that they are dry, another layer on the shadow sides of just the skin would be a great addition, thanks!
As far as the color swatches go, I had them in the same order and it just looked annoying. I'm a color girl above all else, and my eye and brain demand asymmetry balance and surprise, so I went with that layout instead. If I ever did this again I would shoot each swatch individually and then digitally lay them out because my digi-cam cannot figure out how to read all those colors and textures at the same time.
Sabrina
I had some more full skirts in my 26 looks but when I whittled it down to this no others made the cut, plus, full is not really in right now (especially in my book) and it's a little too cliche Betsey. MORE COLOR? It almost runs the full spectrum. I have never had anyone tell me I need more color, that's just funny to me.
Personally I think more variation would have taken away from the cohesiveness of the collection, none of my dresses have the same silhouette plus a jacket and 2 pairs of pants. I mean, i guess i just don't see how i could have fit more into 10 looks and kept it harmonious.
The image on the cover page is not crooked, that's exactly what I meant it to look like, a little rough, just like Bestey. in fact, my crit from Ali on that cover page was "perfect".
The face dress I imagined having a hidden side zipper so that's why I didn't draw it. I envisioned this dress with straps inside that are holding the dress on and some sort of boning inside the "hair" that holds it up, a little gaga and impossible to explain with a 2 sided flat... good eye on noticing that though!!
As far as seeing it on the runway, I'd be happy to sell it but I'm sure not going to be pursuing it. I girl who works in the bar i draw at a lot said she wanted several of the outfits, so maybe i can get her to make a few of them for me in trade for whatever designs she wants for herself!! We shall see!
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions!!!
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